| | Overview (Source: Frommers) | Oaxaca and Chiapas have larger Indian populations than the other states in Mexico. These Indians don't just keep to their own little villages; you see them everywhere. Over the centuries, their practices, beliefs, and customs have shaped the local culture, making these two states fascinating places to visit. In Oaxaca, there is a large population of Zapotec and Mixtec Indians in the central highlands surrounding Oaxaca City. It's a land of mountains and valleys checkered with cornfields, at its prettiest during the rainy season (Jun-Oct), when the corn is green. The villages here are famous for their crafts and attract visitors from all over the world. Many families now earn more by selling handicrafts than they do by growing corn. But growing corn carries much more weight in their ordering of things -- it's part of their identity, it's part of what makes them Indians. Their ancestors established agriculture and civilization in these valleys centuries ago. They were the ones who built and rebuilt the magnificent ceremonial center of Monte Albán high upon a mountaintop above Oaxaca City. Up there, you'll find an intriguing collection of buildings, ball courts, and plazas with designs distinctive from those of the Maya to the east and the many cultures of central Mexico to the northwest. But my favorite part of a trip here is visiting the city of Oaxaca, a colonial city of stone buildings, plazas, and courtyards. With the pleasures of elegant surroundings,
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