| | Overview (Source: Frommers) |
Through all its vicissitudes, Palermo has continued to capture the imagination of world travelers. In 1768, the German romantic poet Johann Wolfgang Goethe had to see Palermo to add the city to his knowledge of classical culture. In Goethe's travel diary, Italian Journey , he describes his arrival by sea and a magnificent setting at the foot of Monte Pellegrino, the "tops of trees swaying like vegetable glow-worms" and a haze tinting "all the shadows blue." So enraptured was Goethe with his first glimpse of Palermo that the captain had to urge him to disembark. Goethe had it right: The best way to appreciate Palermo for the first time is by an arrival by sea. As a city, Palermo is both loathed and adored by visitors, praised and condemned. It's a mixture of panache and poverty, a place of beauty that is hideously ugly in places, and a great city in which to wear a money belt and keep an eye on your camera. There are a lot safer places to be in the world than Palermo after dark. Palermo's Arabo-Norman buildings have no equal on the planet, and the entire city is a treasure trove of museums (often dusty, forgotten ones) and baroque oratories. Its outdoor markets, such as raucous Vucciria, evoke North Africa and are still dominated by the influence of the Arabs who departed centuries ago. To feel the pulse of Palermo, visit one of these markets. We are eternally fascinated by the sea creatures sold. We sigh at the beauty of mounds of purple artichokes, piles
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| History (Source: WCities) | Top | The origins Palermo was founded by the Phoenicians between the 8th and 6th century B.C. and since the beginning, the city has been connected to the sea and the port. No wonder then that one can see images of ships, fish and the sea God Neptune on the old coins. Palermo remained Phoenician until Romans seized control. In the 3rd century B.C., Palermo was divided into two parts—the old city (Paleapolis) and the new one (Neapolis). During the Phoenician period, the city became remarkably wealthy, due to the port activity and agricultural development. As a result of the war between Carthage and Imera in 480 B.C, the Phoenician fleet found shelter in the city’s harbor. Ermocrate from Syracuse tried to conquer the city in 276 B.C. But it remained in the hands of the rulers of Carthage, until it was conquered by the Romans in 254 B.C. Asdrubale tried to retake the city, but was defeated by Cecilio Metello. Another Phoenician, General Amilcare Barca attacked the city for four years from Monte Pellegrino. After the fall of the Roman Empire, the city fell in the hands of Vandal king Geiseric (455). Later, Odoacre (476) and Teodorico (493) also conquered it for a limited period of time. In 535, it was re-conquered and handed back to the Byzantine emperor Justinian. In 549, the city was occupied by Totila, but later returned to the Byzantines in 552. The splendor of the Arab-Norman period It was for the first time with Muslim domination in Sicily that P
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| How To Get There (Source: Frommers) | Top | Flights into Palermo from mainland Italy are obviously the fastest, most convenient links. Palermo's airport, Punta Raisi , is the island's largest, with the greatest number of flights; it's 31km (19 miles) west of Palermo on the A29 highway. In Palermo, you can call tel. 091-7020111 for information on domestic flights or international connections. Most likely you will be booked on a flight via Rome or Milan to your return destination. From the airport, a local bus to Piazza Giulio Cesare (central train station) will cost 6€ ($7.20). A taxi is likely to charge at least 35€ ($42) -- or more, if the driver thinks he can get away with it. It's also possible to rent a car at the airport (all the major firms are represented) and drive into Palermo. Allow 20 to 30 minutes -- longer, if traffic is bad -- to get to the center of town. By Train Palermo has good rail links with the rest of Sicily and also to Italy. After a 3-hour ride from Messina, on the northeast coast, you'll arrive at Palermo's main terminal, Stazione Centrale , at Piazza Giulio Cesare (tel. 091-6161844 ), which lies on the eastern side of town and is linked to the center by a network of buses and taxis. The ticket office here is open daily from 6:45am to 8:40pm, with luggage storage available. The train ride from Catania, in the east, takes 3 1/2 hours, with frequent departures throughout the day. From Trapani, in the west, it's a 2 1/2-hour ride, with 11 trains arriving daily.
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| What To Do (Source: WCities) | Top | An uninterrupted season The variety and the quality of theatrical and cinema offerings are without doubt the strong points of the winter events in Palermo. There is also a splendid summer programme called “Palermo di Scena”, which offers films and plays as well as nature and photography exhibitions, and concerts (both classical and non), all of which are hosted in some of the most beautiful, ancient villas in Palermo, such as Villa Trabia, Villa Filippina and Villa Lampedusa. Theatre —The theatrical tradition in Palermo has always been very rich and diverse, a mixture of Arabic, Norman, French and Spanish cultures. Street theatre that is performed today, such as the typical vastasata , still reflects Sicilian cabaret and folklore, while the Teatro dei Pupi (puppet theatre) remains faithful to its ancient roots. The theatre scene is varied in summer and winter, and the programmes offered by Teatro Massimo and Teatro Politeama stand out amongs the rest, these being the two main theatres in the Sicilian capital. Opera Teatro Massimo, has recently returned to its ancient splendor, it is certainly the temple of opera and ballet because it has the largest stage in the world. Inaugurated in 1897, it is one of the grandest theatres in Europe and plays host to the most important operas and the most prestigious names in the opera world. The Teatro Politeama (separated from Teatro Massimo by the Via Ruggero Settimo located in the heart of the centre), took o
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| Getting Around (Source: Frommers) | Top | The modernized bus system, once you learn to work it, is the best means of getting around the attractions on the periphery of Palermo, such as Monreale or Mondello. Most central lines cross Via Maqueda and its parallel street Via Roma, going through the quadrants of the old town. Other buses run east and west along the major dividing street, Corso Vittorio Emanuele. In the New Town, Piazza Verdi, with its landmark Teatro Massimo, is a major hub, as is Piazza Politeama. A ride on a municipal bus costs 1€ ($1.20). For information, call AMAT , Via Borrelli 16 (tel. 091-6902690 ). Most passengers buy their tickets at tabacchi (tobacco shops) before boarding. A tourist bus called City Sightseeing begins and ends its circuit at the landmark Teatro Politeama (the Emerico Amari side). It stops at many major monuments, including the Duomo and the Royal Palace. Departures are at 9am daily. Tickets are sold on board; there are no advance reservations. The cost is 20€ ($24) per person. Children under 12 are granted a 50% discount. For information, call tel. 091-589429. By Taxi Getting around the inner core of Palermo by bus is very time-consuming and not easy, and driving a car around Palermo is a nightmare. In most cases, taxis are the best way to navigate the city center. Taxi stands are found at the main rail depot, at Piazza Verdi, at Piazza Indipendenza, and at Piazza Ruggero Séttimo, among other locations. The meter drops at 3.50€ ($4.20) and char
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