168km (91 nautical miles) SE of Piraeus Paros is accurately (but hardly enticingly) known as the "transportation hub" of the Cyclades: Almost all island boats stop here en route to someplace else. As a result, Paros has suffered from the reputation of the place on the way to the place where you're going. At present, Paros is still cheaper than either Mykonos or Santorini -- in fact, some call it the "poor man's Mykonos" -- although rising prices are rapidly making that nickname anachronistic. Comparisons aside, Paros's good beaches and nightlife have made it a very popular destination in its own right. Because of the absence of any single five-star attraction -- there's no antiquity here to rival Santorini's ancient Akrotiri and nothing to rival the beauty of Mykonos's perfect Cycladic architecture -- a lot of visitors come here simply to have a good time, windsurfing, sunbathing, and partying. Still others -- not necessarily opposed to having a good time -- are drawn back over and over again to Paros because of its other attractions. Admittedly, if you come by ship, your first impression after docking at the main port and capital Parikia will be of the kitsched-up windmill on the quay, travel agents, cafes, and the not terribly enticing fast-food joints lining the harborfront. Where, you'll wonder, is the town described as "charming?" Take a few steps inland, and you'll find it. Parikia has an energetic marketplace and the Ekatondapiliani, the 100-doored church
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