| | Overview (Source: Frommers) | The world's northernmost capital, Reykjavík is a captivating mix of the parochial and the worldly. It's Iceland's main entry portal; its political, economic, and cultural center; and home to most of its population. Reykjavík's ambience is simultaneously that of a city-like town and a town-like city. As Iceland's all-around nerve center, Reykjavík is the logical starting point for visitors. For most of its history, Reykjavík suffered a backward reputation among European capitals, but this has only intensified its heady sensation of newfound wealth and authority. Thirty years ago, no one even dreamed Reykjavík would become an international arbiter of hipness, especially in music and nightlife. Despite its reputation for wild nights, Reykjavík by day is the most subdued of European capitals. Its cosmopolitan edge seems at odds with its squat, boxy architecture. It almost feels wrong to leave the world's problems so far behind: Iceland's urban life is virtually free of crime, homelessness, and pollution. Reykjavík is committed to sustainable development, with aggressive tree planting, home heating and electrical systems powered by underground hot springs -- that faint eggy smell in bathrooms is a natural by-product -- and a few buses running on hydrogen fuel (look for steam emissions from the roof). One night in September 2006, the entire city agreed to turn off all lights for 30 minutes simultaneously. The stars weren't out that night, but the point was still made: Rey
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| Getting Around (Source: Frommers) | Top | Reykjavík is easily explored by bicycle and has a good network of bike paths. Riding on sidewalks and footpaths is widely tolerated, and some trails are illuminated by streetlights in fall and winter. A free biking map is available at the Tourist Information Center, or downloadable from www.reykjavik.is/paths. We recommend the popular route that takes you around the coastline and into the peaceful Elliðaár Valley. The only major bike rental business in town is Borgarhjól, Hverfisgata 50 (tel. 551-5653; www.borgarhjol.net; Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 10am-2pm). They carry high-quality Trek bicycles and provide studded tires in winter. Rates are 2,000kr ($32/£16) per day with discounts for half days or longer rentals. They run an outpost at the City Hostel at Laugardalur, and some other accommodations also arrange bike rentals. By Bus Reykjavík's bus service Stræto (tel. 540-2700; www.bus.is) is very reliable. The major bus hubs are Lækjartorg (in the city center, at the north end of Lækjargata), Hlemmur (on the eastern end of Laugavegur), and the BSÍ bus terminal (Vatnsmýrarvegur 10; www.bsi.is) south of the city center. Free bus maps are available at www.bus.is (check out the impressive "Journey Planner" feature), the Tourist Information Center, and bus hubs. Most travelers use buses only to reach outlying hotels or sights such as The Pearl, Laugardalur Park, and the Árbær Museum. Local routes venture as far as the suburbs of Hafnarfjörður, Mosfellsbær, an
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