| | Overview (Source: Frommers) |
The scenic 31km (19-mile) drive from Faleolo Airport into the historic capital of Apia provides a fitting introduction to Samoa. Here in this cultural storehouse, which was once known as Western Samoa, the Polynesian lifestyle known as fa'a Samoa -- The Samoan Way -- remains alive and well. On one side of the road lies an aquamarine lagoon; on the other, coconut plantations climb gentle slopes to the volcanic ridge along the middle of Upolu, the main island. Along the shore of Upolu, Samoa's main island, sit hundreds of Samoan fales (houses), their big turtle-shaped roofs resting on poles, their sides open to the breeze and to passersby. Their grass trimmed and their borders marked with boulders painted white, expansive lawns make the route seem like an unending park. Samoans wrapped in lava-lavas shower under outdoor faucets and sit together in their fales. Only the dim glow of television screens coming from beneath tin roofs rather than thatch remind us that a century has passed since Robert Louis Stevenson lived, wrote, and died here in Samoa. Even the town of Apia harkens back to those bygone South Seas days. Although landfills have extended the shoreline, high-rises now stand on the waterfront, and traffic lights blink at several corners, many old white clapboard buildings still sleep along Beach Road, just as they did when Stevenson stepped ashore here in 1889. Compared with the hustle and bustle of Papeete, or with the congestion and canneries of Pago P
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| How To Get There (Source: Frommers) | Top | Air New Zealand flies between Auckland and Samoa, with one flight a week going on to Los Angeles and back. Polynesian Blue, a joint venture between the Samoan government and Virgin Blue, connects the country with Auckland and Sydney. Air Pacific flies twice weekly between Apia and Fiji (usually in the middle of the night). A less direct way to get to Apia is on Hawaiian Airlines, which flies between several West Coast cities and Honolulu, thence to Pago Pago in American Samoa. Connections to Samoa can then be made on Polynesian Airlines' small planes. Flights into and out of the Samoas are often packed with Samoans leaving and returning to the islands, so reserve a seat as soon as possible. Arriving -- All international flights arrive at Faleolo Airport (APW), on the northwest corner of Upolu about 32km (19 miles) from Apia. There are duty-free shops and two currency exchange windows in the baggage claim area, or you can wait until you've cleared Customs and use ANZ Bank's ATM in the main concourse. Getting to Your Hotel -- Aggie Grey's resorts and some other accommodation send buses to meet their guests who have reservations. Otherwise, transportation from Faleolo airport is by taxi or by buses which meet all international flights. The government-regulated taxi fare into town is S$50 (US$20/£10), but make sure you and the driver agree on the fare. The bus ride officially costs S$12 (US$4.80/£2.40) each way. Departing -- Shuttle buses al
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| Getting Around (Source: Frommers) | Top | Polynesian Airlines (tel. 800/264-0823 or 22-737; www.polynesianairlines.com) used to fly several times a day between Faleolo Airport and Maota Airstrip, near Salelologa on the southeastern corner of Savai'i, but during my recent visit it was down to one plane, which shuttled between Faleolo and American Samoa. Check with Polynesian Airlines to see if its Faleolo-Savai'i service has resumed. By Ferry Two passenger-automobile ferries run between Mulifanua Wharf on Upolu and Salelologa on Savai'i every 2 hours Monday to Saturday from 6am to 4pm and Sunday 10am to 4pm. The Lady Samoa is larger, faster, and more comfortable than its smaller, open-air companion, with which it alternates trips. Plan on about 90 minutes each way. The one-way passenger fare is S$9 (US$3.60/£1.80). Local buses leave regularly from the Apia market and pass Mulifanua Wharf on their way to Pasi O Le Vaa. Taxi fare to the wharf is S$60 (US$24/£12); bus fare is S$3 (US$1.20/60p). I bring my rental vehicle to Savai'i because it's much less of a hassle than renting another one on Savai'i. The one-way fare for vehicles is S$65 (US$26/£13), including the driver's fare. Buy your vehicle ticket in advance at Samoa Shipping Corporation (tel. 20-935; www.samoashipping.com), at Mulifanua Wharf or on Beach Road opposite the main wharf in Apia. Vehicles must be at Mulifanua Wharf at least an hour before departure. Be sure to ask if the car rental firms will allow you to take their vehi
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