169km (105 miles) NE of Auckland; 62km (38 miles) S of Paihia; 58km (36 miles) E of Dargaville On my last visit to Whangarei (pop. 46,000), the place seemed dreary and dull -- but not any longer. Like so many provincial New Zealand towns, it's got its act together and the development of the Town Basin has given it a fresh sparkle. With international yachts moored quayside and a sprouting of cafes, galleries, and gift stores, it's a pleasant place to wander. If you're a keen scuba diver, you'll certainly want to base yourself here -- nearby Tutukaka and the Poor Knights Islands are the supreme diving spots. They're part of a fascinating marine reserve and one of the world's top dive locations. Big-game fishing is the other star attraction, and if you consider shark cage diving an attraction, well, that's here, too. Approximately 1 hour south of Whangarei and 1 hour north of Auckland is the village of Warkworth, at the heart of the Kowhai Coast. It gives access to the very pretty Sandspit/Matakana area, where you can catch a ferry to Kawau Island or visit a range of excellent swimming beaches. It's not exactly off the beaten track, but Sandspit offers some fine accommodations, wineries and boutique food operations, and the chance to mellow out away from fellow tourists. In recent years, the area has become increasingly popular and you'll now find a number of enjoyable low-key attractions here. Ba
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